cast aluminum brake/clutch pedals are 8-1/8" long from pivot
center to the top of the foot pad and 5-1/2" long from pivot
center to the bottom of the foot pad, the foot pads are 3"
by 1-1/2", the clevis web (where the master cylinder pushrod
clevis attaches) is 5/16" thick and the base is about .010
thinner than 1-3/8".
two pedals on the left are "as cast," meaning that's
how we get them from the foundry; the sprue has been cut off (and
thrown back into the furnace) but that's all that's been done.
The dimple seen at the pivot point is in the tooling, to make
it easy for homebuilders to accurately center their drills--it's
not a pilot hole, it's a locating feature to make it easy to drill
the pilot hole in the right place. If you go the "as cast"
route, puLEEZE use a drill press, start with a pilot hole, and
follow that with a drill bit that's 1/32 smaller than the hole
you want to end up with, and <then> drill it to the size
you want. Best results are with a reamer for the finish size (that's
how we make our Standard pedals) but you can get perfectly acceptable
Locost results with drill bits if you're methodical and careful,
and you'll save $5 a pedal by doing it yourself. This is our Basic
pedal, priced at $30.
two pedals on the right have 1/2" pivot holes drilled and
reamed, and the pedal return stop is cut to place the footpad
3" behind the pivot at rest. The clevis webs are not drilled
for a pushrod clevis pin, so you can set your own pedal pressure
ratio (the webs are marked with felt pen at the 6/1 and 5/1 ratio
points) and drill to fit whatever pin size suits your master cylinder
pushrod clevis. This is our Standard pedal, priced at $35.
offer a Pedal Assembly (our Standard pedal plus mounting bracket
and pivot pin) for $40. The bracket is 1-5/8" long, slightly
under 1-3/4" wide--slightly under to make fastener installation
easier--and 9/16" from the center of the pivot to the inside
bottom. The pivot is a clevis pin, fastened with a cotter key,
to allow minimum spacing (2", versus 2-1/2" for a drilled
bolt, castellated nut, and cotter key or safety wire) between
the brake and clutch pedal brackets.
The Standard pedal
is available with the return stop uncut, if you are providing
your own brackets or are retrofitting Kinetic pedals to another
manufacturer's kit. The length of the return stop will have to
be determined by the fit of your brackets--if your brackets have
a greater space than 9/16" between the pivot holes and the
base of the bracket, you'll want your return stop to be longer
than our Standard cut.
That's up to the
eye of the beholder. Billet
pedals may look cooler, but they're five times as expensive as
our Basic pedals and they're hard to come by. If you want to,
you can sand and polish the Kinetic pedals to a dazzling gleam,
but I sure don't on mine--I file off the flashing or touch it
to a wire wheel or belt sander and I'm done. I'm not much of a
bling guy and it's dark down there in the driver's footwell, so
I don't much care. However, I do care about...
A heck of a good
question for any brake part, particularly a cast part. We tested
four samples to over 1000 pounds, and in my opinion, yes, they're
strong enough. For details, click the <Load test--Pedals>
...or back to
...or on to Load